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  Here you can see the March Pulleys and the Alternator with the additional bracket I fabed to move it outboard and down to clear the valve cover. You can also see the mock-up of the Power Steering bracket. The Power Steering Pump is moved up (to clear the engine mount, and outboard (to provide greater exhaust manifold clearance). The Alternator will use the stock 68 belt (I need to buy a new one), while I will have to measure and select one for the Power Steering Pump. I may also have to modify the inner fender at the pulley to provide additional clearance as well.  10/1/2005
  After trying the Krylon Spray cans of Olive Drab, and not liking the darkness (grayness), I tried the PPG (the paint brand available locally) Flat green.  Well it was too yellow.  The PPG Lusterless Olive Drab (33070) looked like the Krylon, so I tried the PPG Flat Olive Drab, Fed Spec. # 34083, and it's just what I wanted.  10/2/2005

  The Kugel Komponents Hanging Pedal Assembly, Booster, and Master Cylinders arrived today.  I've been able to get it roughly positioned as well.  Jeff at Kugel helped select the unit, and I received a Thru Firewall Mount Universal Brake/Clutch System, # 278S (Clutch & Power Brake Pedal Assembly With Dual M/C & Clutch M/C With 8" Double Diaphragm - 14" Pedal) However I will likely be exchanging the pedals for the ones from the 278L, which are 3" longer (17"), but they have agreed to do that if I need.  The mounting will place the clutch pedal almost exactly in line with the stock through the floor pedal, while the brake will be just immediately to the inside of the steering column.  10/4/2005
  Kugel is sending me the 17" pedal arms, and based on the info I got from Jerry (at Kugel), I only need between 7 and 8" of stoke at the pedal.  So based on my mounting location, I have 7"  with the pedal un-depressed location at the same as the stock pedal.  Since I will have to build a new floor panel to replace the two piece that was fitted around the through the floor pedals, I will probably add depressions for the pedal arms to allow the pedals to go the extra inch.  It looks like the brake pedal pad will be mounted on the center of the pedal arm, while I will have to Clutch approximately 1" outboard.  This should not be a problem, as both stock pads are mounted off center.  10/5/2005
  I completed the design and thanks to Kevin in Indiana and his water-Jet, I have it welded together and installed.  I had to space the pump a 1/4" rearward from the bracket to align the pulleys though, which causes it to be awful close to the exhaust manifold bolt.  I also missed one little thing in my design, as I won't be able to take full advantage to the adjustment stroke, as the belt will hit the water pump pulley.  I probably should have moved the pump an additional 1/2" further outboard since I have to modify the inner fender for pulley clearance anyway.  This would have gave me more belt adjustment and manifold clearance.  10/8/2005
  The Flex-a-lite fan and radiator are now installed and my clearance is 1".  Once I get all the sheet metal on and make any final adjustments to the radiator bracket location to allow for proper fender positioning, I'll have to re-check the clearance.  10/8/2005
  I fabricated a bracket to hold the Datcon Oil Pressure sender (clearance issue with the distributor), and also hold a mechanical VDO Oil Pressure Gauge.  The mechanical gauge is a back-up and it will also allow me to start and run the engine while I work on the rest of the truck (wiring, etc...)  10/8/2005
  Started out the day making out the shopping list of the needed items, like fuel & vacuum hoes, oil line and plugs for the manifold holes.  Then with the oil line in place and no plugs, or electrical, I proceeded to crank it over and make sure the oil flows.  Well, no pressure.  I even watched inside the oil filler at the rockers and no oil flowing (in case my mechanical gauge was bad).  So I pulled the distributor, and all looked well, the drive gear and shaft seemed to be properly seated as the distributor installation was good.  So I pull the oil pump gear/shaft.  Now for anyone who has had to do this on a Mopar, it's not easy, but out she came.  I quickly picked up the old one out of the left over pile, and it was a good match,  So why no oil pressure?  Frustrated, I mowed the lawn.  New Plan, cut the gear teeth off the old shaft and use a drill (850 RPM) to dive it and see what I get.  If I had had a length of hex shaft I could of used it, but no since in making a trip to the store when you have an old junk part that you can convert.  I drop it in and play with it, and yep, it's engaging the oil pump.  So next comes the drill with a length of all thread with the end modified to match the end of the distributor.  I crank for a few seconds, and still no oil pressure.  So I give a few more seconds, still nothing.  By now I'm getting really worried.  Here I have all this work, and the engine installed and ready.  I was supposed to be in WV this weekend with the completed truck (had I meet my original time line).  So I figure since I'm not cranking anything but the oil pump, and if it's bad no harm done, so I spin it some more.  Wait the sound of a little load on the drill, I stop and glance at the gauge.  Yes, Pressure, so I spin it some more.  65 PSI, not bad, so I let it run some more to make sure there is oil thought out the system.  Now to pull the old shaft and drop the good one back in.  I made sure to stop the engine at the timing mark, with the rotor pointing properly, so the reinstallation went good.  Now I turned the engine over and, yes pressure while cranking.  Now to install plugs, and wire in (temporally) the fuel injection and ignition.  With all that done, and the fuel line connected and into a gas can, it's time to let her breath.  Well, no go.  I had spark, and fuel, but only a few pow's and no run.  Ok, I recheck everything, and it's all good.  SO my only idea left it. timing.  I hook up the timing light and spin it over, and it's good.  Now what?  The only thing lift I can figure is I must have it 180 out of time on the distributor.  But how, I was careful when I built the engine, and when I pulled the distributor and reinstalled it, but there was nothing else left to check.  So I grab the wrench, and in less than a minute I had it out rotated and back in.  So here we go i cross my fingers, and give it a try.  After a few moments of cranking she starts to hit and finally purrs to life!  She's Alive!  Yes, the relief that must have been seen on my face.  No coolant in it yet, so I can't run it for long, but she sounds strong and is sweet music to my ears and heart.  Now to get the correct upper radiator hose, and the proper water temperature sending unit, and I can get some real run time.  It's been a great weekend, now with the wedding next weekend, I won't get mush done, but She's Alive!  10/9/05
  New Obstacle - PS Pump Belt and Clearances (Radiator Hose / Water Pump Pulley). I picked up the PS Pump belt per my measurements, and it fits, bit will rub the lower radiator hose, if I install a longer one it will rub the water pump pulley. So, what are my options? Currently I'm thinking I might need to move the PS Pump to the top of the engine directly above the water pump. Any one ever done this? I'd consider building a metal tube to replace the lower radiator hose so I could flatten it out in the affected area, and use two short straight pieces of hose to connect it at both ends, but if the belt stretched any it will rub the Water Pump Pulley. Any other ideas? Any suggestions?  10/10/2005
  Per popular request, and Kevin L, here is a view of the Passenger side from a little further back.  10/10/2005

  The MRT (Marsh Racing Wheels) Wheels arrived today, and WOW, are they nice!  However, three of them were dropped on there edge between the manufacture and me, I assume by the guys in the brown truck.  I've filled a claim, and have to wait 10 days to find out what they will do.  So in the meantime, I've mounted the two good ones on the front and checked for clearances.  I have 2" of clearance between the tire and the shock, and PS pitman arm shaft, and 1" of clearance between the tire and the grease zert on the steering arm.  I also have about 9" to the fender.  Not decided if I will paint them, or leave them black and orange.  the center plate wound up being 1/2" thick, so I'm not using any spacers between the wheel and hub.  This places the nuts in the same place as the 1/4" brake drum, and 1/4" Budd wheels.  these wheels are 17x10's with a true 7.75" backspacing (3/4" more than the Budd's).  10/13/2005
  Here is the final position and angles of the Intermediate Drive Shaft.  I have 1/2" of travel in the shortening direction, and that should be good with the fixed position Engine and Transfercase.  10/17/2005
  Closed up the un-needed holes in the firewall, and cut the new ones for the new hanging pedal setup.  Also made the changes for the steering column bearing as well.  10/19/2005

  Well, it's been the 10 days since I received the wheels, I called March Racing Wheels back, and since they DON'T Insure the items before they Ship, UPS is only paying a set amount for the repairs.  So, I'm checking with a local wheel shop Weldcraft Wheels to see if they can straighten them.  Two of the three clearly have wheel damage, and two of the three bead lock rings are also bent, but not as bad as the wheels.  My plan is to have the three wheels repaired and checked so I can get then on the truck.  It's a real pain to buy new parts and have to have repairs made, but I guess that's they way low cost and the world has gone.  Guess I should have asked about shipping insurance when I placed the order.  10/22/2005

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