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Well, now that the house is (mostly) done and the family is here, I have managed to get in a little work on the wiring (despite a busy work schedule).  In a good day's worth of wiring, I've gotten the Headlight, Turn Signals, Brake Lights, and Gauges all installed.  It took a little time to remember exactly where I left off and what was what, and then what (parts wise) was where in the box's in the shop.  I still need to get the shop organized, but getting the truck operational will come first.  I've also realized that I need to rotate the Gauge Cluster 180 degrees and get the smaller gauges on top so they can actually be read.  Mounted that low you can't read them.  I've also learned that using the Painless wiring harness wasn't that great of an idea.  It was designed for the fuse block to mount in the cab on the driver side, and I mounted it in the engine compartment on the passenger side.  So wire are either to long, or to short, and the double back on them selves because of there bundling.  I've gotten in a little hurry to get the truck running, so I've not done as neat of a job as I'd intended to, but this will get me going, and when I pull the body off in the future to blast and paint it, I'll do the wiring job clean and proper.   04/01/2007
  Got a little more wiring done.  The Batteries are mounted and the Battery Cables and Radiator Fan or wired.  I tried to fire her up, and am having some problems.  Not sure if it's strictly related to low voltage, but the Holly Pr0Jection is flooding the engine.  I still need to wire the alternator and winch, but getting closer.  I'll have several of the Painless Wiring circuits un-used when done with this stage.  04/08/2007

Before I installed the Body and Wiring I had the engine temporarily wired (jury rigged) and had the truck running. But now I' cant seem to get it started and running. I've had it hit and miss, but flood out. I've came to the conclusion that it was a voltage problem, and bought a better battery charger.

Still trying to get the truck started, and I've come to the conclusion that there is something wrong with the Wiring/Electronic Ignition.  I've placed a switch between the "Holly Pro-Jection 2D Main Power (Red)" and the "Ignition Switch", so that I can crank the engine with out flooding it.  I've also temporarily disconnected the wire between the "Start Switch" and the "Coil +" as it's an optional hotter spark option by Mopar.  If I try starting the truck with the "Ignition Switch" wire connected to the Ballast Resistor, the engine turns over very slow.  If I disconnect it, the engine cranks over fast, fast enough to start if I had spark and fuel.   04/15/2007

  I got the engine running!  I backed off the timing and made sure the batter was well charged and she fired up and ran.  It took a little to get it to start and idle better, but it's getting closer.  When she warms up a little she runs pretty good, but cold idle needs a little more work.  I tried adjusting the timing a little, and she is a bit touchy there, not a very wide range of smooth performance.  But the great thing is is starts up and runs!  FRANKENSTEIN LIVES!!!  What a great relief.  04/17/2007
  Frankenstein on the move!  I figured out the problem I was having with starting, well part of it any way.  The ballast resistor start bypass wire, was back feeding the starter and sucking to voltage away from the coil, thus not providing enough spark after I let off of the start button.  After taking the truck for a drive and doing some suspension checks, she ran out of fuel.  Well I had trouble getting her restarted, and the she dies after s short drive and would not re-start.  Now back to the drawing board.  Seems to be a fuel/air issue, but not positive.  04/21/2007

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