|
 |
|
Well, now that the house is (mostly) done and
the family is here, I have managed to get in a little work on the wiring
(despite a busy work schedule). In a good day's worth of wiring, I've
gotten the Headlight, Turn Signals, Brake Lights, and Gauges all installed.
It took a little time to remember exactly where I left off and what was
what, and then what (parts wise) was where in the box's in the shop. I
still need to get the shop organized, but getting the truck operational will
come first. I've also realized that I need to rotate the Gauge Cluster
180 degrees and get the smaller gauges on top so they can actually be read.
Mounted that low you can't read them. I've also learned that using the
Painless wiring harness wasn't that great of an idea. It was designed
for the fuse block to mount in the cab on the driver side, and I mounted it
in the engine compartment on the passenger side. So wire are either to
long, or to short, and the double back on them selves because of there
bundling. I've gotten in a little hurry to get the truck running, so
I've not done as neat of a job as I'd intended to, but this will get me
going, and when I pull the body off in the future to blast and paint it,
I'll do the wiring job clean and proper. 04/01/2007 |
 |
|
Got a little more wiring done. The
Batteries are mounted and the Battery Cables and Radiator Fan or wired.
I tried to fire her up, and am having some problems. Not sure if it's
strictly related to low voltage, but the Holly Pr0Jection is flooding the
engine. I still need to wire the alternator and winch, but getting
closer. I'll have several of the Painless Wiring circuits un-used when
done with this stage. 04/08/2007 |
.gif) |
|
Before I installed the Body and
Wiring I had the engine temporarily wired (jury rigged) and had the truck
running. But now I' cant seem to get it started and running. I've had it hit
and miss, but flood out. I've came to the conclusion that it was a voltage
problem, and bought a better battery charger.
Still trying to get the truck
started, and I've come to the conclusion that there is something wrong with
the Wiring/Electronic Ignition. I've placed a switch between the
"Holly Pro-Jection 2D Main Power (Red)" and the "Ignition Switch", so that I
can crank the engine with out flooding it. I've also temporarily
disconnected the wire between the "Start Switch" and the "Coil +" as it's an
optional hotter spark option by Mopar. If I try starting the truck
with the "Ignition Switch" wire connected to the Ballast Resistor, the
engine turns over very slow. If I disconnect it, the engine cranks
over fast, fast enough to start if I had spark and fuel.
04/15/2007 |
 |
|
I got the engine running! I backed off the timing and made sure the
batter was well charged and she fired up and ran. It took a little to
get it to start and idle better, but it's getting closer. When she
warms up a little she runs pretty good, but cold idle needs a little more
work. I tried adjusting the timing a little, and she is a bit touchy
there, not a very wide range of smooth performance. But the great
thing is is starts up and runs! FRANKENSTEIN LIVES!!! What a
great relief. 04/17/2007 |
 |
|
Frankenstein on the move! I figured out the problem I was having with
starting, well part of it any way. The ballast resistor start bypass
wire, was back feeding the starter and sucking to voltage away from the
coil, thus not providing enough spark after I let off of the start button.
After taking the truck for a drive and doing some suspension checks, she ran
out of fuel. Well I had trouble getting her restarted, and the she
dies after s short drive and would not re-start. Now back to the
drawing board. Seems to be a fuel/air issue, but not positive.
04/21/2007 |
.jpg)
