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  The new Throttle Body Fuel Injection system has arrived.  After some internet research, and recommendations and advice from others, I decided to go back with a Throttle Body system.  I could have selected a Port Injection system and undergone a more extensive upgrade, or bought a replacement or updated Pro-Jection system, or even one of the newer self contained systems from one of several other manufactures.  However, with looking to keep the investment down, but get the truck back to a solid off-road performance rig, I went a slightly different route. I selected a modified GM TBI closed-loop system.  There are a few suppliers of these GM systems out there, and you can even build your own.  However after talking with Norm at Affordable Fuel Injection, he determined that his system could be programmed to work well with my MoPar V-8 with 323 cu.in.’s and Melling Performance cam.  The GM system has the ability to also control the ignition system, but I’ve been very happy with the MoPar unit backed by an Accell Super Coil.  The GM TBI system and the Holley unit share a lot of design similarities.  It's stated that GM contracted Holley for the original design, and later outsourced the final product to Rochester for production.  While removing the remnants of the Pro-Jection system and installing the new AFI unit, I will also be doing some additional wiring cleanup and general maintenance.  2014-02-04



  Well, here is what the engine compartment looks like with the carburetor and my original wiring mess.  When I wired the M, I started with a Painless Off-Road waterproof generic harness.  The harness was designed to have the fuse box installed inside the cab on the drivers side, and based on the M's interior room and layout I installed it on the engine passenger side.  This caused the long wires to be too long, and short wires to be too short, as well as some wires looping out to the engine compartment band back for no reason.  To be sure I was happy with the location I'd left the long wires long, and the extra wires just coiled up.  My plan was that after I finished getting the M up and running and was happy with the wiring/fuse box location I'd going back and cleaning up the extra wires.  Well, that never happened.  So I decided that since I had to strip out the Pro-Jection wiring, I'd take this time to clean up the wiring, remove the extra leads, and extra wire lengths.  2014-02-18




  In the first picture you can see the original Carburetor that powered the MoPar 318 V8 when it was in the 1968 Dodge W200 Power Wagon setting next to the Holley Pro-Jection and AFI GM TBI.  In the remaining 4 pictures you can see how close the design is between the Holley Throttle Body and GM TBI system.   Holley even has the cast in the idle air control passages but did not use one in their system.   The Holley system has an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, where the GM unit is fixed.  The Holley has a 2" bore per barrel, while the GM has a 1-11/16" bore per barrel.  Based on some post by others and some research, the unit I received is fitted with two 50# (at 13 psi) fuel injectors and is rated for 490 CFM.  The Holley unit was a 670 CFM unit and had two injectors of rated at 85# (at 15psi), and is rated for up to 275 HP.  My '68 318 Engine with the original carburetor was rated at 210 HP, and the only internal changes was the boring it 30 over and adding the Melling cam.  So I'm guessing I might be producing up to 215 HP and 295 ft.lbs. of Torque, or maybe slightly more.  I'm looking forward to the M running great on this system and no longer running rich, just hope for better performance overall.  2014-02-19

TBI Fueling - Dynamic EFI
MoPar LA Engine Series
GM Injector size, color and part numbers


  Here you can see the progress being made in cleaning up the wiring.  First, let me re-iterate I originally used a Painless Wiring 12 Circuit Weatherproof Wiring Harness (10140).  I was designed for off-road use, and with the intent of the fuse block being installed on the inside drivers side where most are found.  However with the limited space inside the M, and the fuse block being waterproof, I'd installed mine on the passenger side in the engine compartment.  This resulted in a harness with wires being routed in strange fashions, and some wires too short, while some too long.  There were fuses for items that I don't have/use in my M like: 5 amp Electric Fan control, 10 amp Radio, 10 amp chock/Hood Light.  As expected I did find that there were a few wires that were for accessories I do not have on the M, that were coiled up on both sides of the firewall, so I cut the wire ties and completely removed the wires.  I also found a few wires that passed thru the firewall that did not need to do so, so more wire ties were cut and they were re-routed and the leads shortened.  I did decide to route a few of the wires through the old M's choke/forging cable passage, in an effort to shorten a few wires and provide for more room in the main wiring passage through the firewall.  In the last picture you can see some of the wire that was removed on the left, and the new AFI harness that I need to install.  I'll have to make a couple of wire routing changes to the AFI harness to accommodate my M, but that should be simple and straight forward.  2014-02-22










  Fabricated a couple of brackets to mount the GM TBI computer inside the glove box.  The one bracket is quickly and easily removable by two screws (nuts welded to back side of the glove box) just in case the computer needs to be removed.  I placed a few pieces of soft Velcro to give the box to add a little cushion in the brackets/box.  After getting the non Throttle Body wiring all cleaned up and re-routed as required, it was time to install the new Throttle Body Wiring Harness.  Before I installed it I re-routed the A/C (I'm using for High Idle) and Start Signal wires, to the computer side of the harness.  Once the wiring harness was passed thru the firewall, it was clear the engine side leads are too long.  However with the sensor ends already installed, I won't cut the leads and shorten them, as I don't want to add a splice/failure point, so I'll have to do some creative and clean routing.  Next I connected the interior cab wires and connected my fuel pump cut off switch and routed the pump power wire and 12 volt computer constant on wires through the firewall.  Next was the trick of routing the 12 volt power wire back to the battery so that it was up stream of the battery disconnect switch, this is so the computer doesn't loose it's memory.  While cleaning up the trucks wiring I did discover the the fuse and fuse leads for the electric fan were corroded and had gotten hot, so they were replaced.  2014-02-26





  I installed the TBI unit and started making the connections.  I had to remove the passenger side exhaust pipe and  weld in the O2 bung.  I routed the AFI wires as best as I can for now, and will clean them up some more later.  I'll need to fabricate a bracket for the MAP sensor.  I installed a new headlight switch as the old one had a loose terminal, I also installed the new KC light relay.  I buttoned up the glove box as well as some of the remaining wires.  With everything connected it was time to see if the M will start.  The last pix is the link to the Video of this first start up.  Once the M was operational again I re-checked everything, all was good and it was time for a test drive.  The M starts great and runs nice, nicer than the Pro-Jection, but perhaps not as hard in acceleration.  It should improve as the computer learns and the engine and weather is warmer.  2014-02-27















  With the AFI TBI system passing the test it was time to clean up the installation a little and mount the MAP sensor.  The wiring looks much better now, and the engine compartment is fairly clean now.  I still need to pull the radiator and have the leaks fixed, and it cleaned out, as well as oil and filter changed.  I've installed the Check Engine Light and have all the interior wiring done except for closing up the console area again.  2014-03-02




  Pulled the radiator from the M to get the leak fixed and it cleaned out.  I pulled the front winch to make it easer to drain, other wise the fluid would have went all over it.  2014-03-05



  I pulled the clutch cover and checked it out.  Pad thickness looks good, and adjustments are good.  The slave cylinder rod is not under pressure from the clutch when it's not engaged, and it does fully separate the pressure plate and firewall so i can spin the clutch by hand.  Finished up the new center console area front panel and battery cable cover.  Previously I had a wood panel across the console, but the weather had started it detraining.  So I fab'ed a metal one, and made a cover for the batter covers, as well as moved the power point to a safer spot in the panel.  With the use of two spray bottles (one with cleaner and one with water), some rages and elbow grease I cleaned up the front of the engine.  I also touched up it's paint where there were bare spots.  I also cleaned and painted the front axle housing that I installed last June while in Iowa.  2014-03-06






  Spent a little time this afternoon to change the valve cover gaskets before changing the oil.  I've had a nuisance valve cover oil line along the intake side since I built the Truck/Motor.  No leaks along the exhaust side, just along the intake.  So I picked up a set of rubber valve cover gaskets and proceeded to change out the Passenger side.  What I discovered when I removed the valve cover was an interference between the MoPar Cast Valve Covers, and the Edelbrock Performer Intake.  So I took a file and relived the valve cover.  I was concerned the drover side valve cover would have clearance issues getting it off, but it wasn't too bad.  I showed signs of a larger interference, and I filled a larger area on it, probably should have done the passengers side the same, but already had it installed.  Once back on, I proceeded to change the oil and filter.  Now all that's left is to rotate the tires and install the radiator once it's ready.  2014-03-07





  Pulled the wheels off for a little paint touch up, and a tire rotation.  Painted the rims and the bead locks.  The bead locks weren't the easiest to paint installed, but they came out looking better than pre-paint.  My Safety Orange was a close match to MRW's, but not exact.  MRW's looked a little pinkish next to the orange I had.  Was going to paint them Hemi Orange, but it was darker, and I felt as they got scratched the contrast would show up more.   I also touched up the paint on the front fender.  I first painted hand painted the letters/numbers by hand, then made some mask to  stick over them and spray painted the olive drab onto the bumper.  I'll need to go back and touch up the letters/numbers again by hand, but it looks good again.  I pulled out the drivers door latch, now to get a new spring and install it.  Just waiting on the radiator to be completed so it can be installed.  2014-03-10







  Got the Drivers Door Latch Spring in from Mid-West Military, and the Radiator back from the shop.  The spring was a little tricky to install, but the real trick was installing the latch assembly back in the Door.  Their was one small leak they repaired, but they said the radiator was very dirty.  Likely the result of the engine setting for two years after the re-build before I filled it with ant-freeze.  Now with three gallons of fresh coolant I hope to be running cool.  After re-installing the radiator I made a quick test drive in 30 degree weather, and all was well.  It still feels a little down on power, but does pull good up to 5,000 RPM.  Found one issue, discovered that the electric fan manual on, and power wires were swapped when I cleaned up some wiring in the dash.  Fixed that and now the fan again works both automatically and manually.  I might not have solved the valve cover leaks, but time will tell.  Also I either have a small rear main seal, or rear oil pan gasket leak.  2014-03-24







  Went to Flat Nasty Off-Road Park in Jadwin MO for Easter with the MIJC.  Had a great time (as always) and the shake down went well, didn't get winched or pulled out.  Have a slobering injector, and a vacuum leak to adress.  I'll also have to repair the passenger side skid plate, as I crawled over a too tall rick and banged it hard.  2014-04-18&19







  More pictures of the Flat Nasty Trip, curtasy of Daren.
     

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