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 - Initially I needed to get the M to start and run again. It was sold as a running Truck with a break leak. Well, when Darrell went to pick it up, it would not start. They tried, but just ended up loading it on the trailer with a tractor. That's how it sat when I picked it up to bring it to my Shop in IL. I decided that since it had relatively new batteries that Darrell had charged, and still it would not start with a little either, I'd check the points. But before that I decided to see if any power was getting to the distributor. Well, it wasn't. So I jumper’ed power from the battery lead on the started, squirted in some either, and she fired right up and ran nicely. Next I pulled the cap off of the distributor to check the points. Found a Rotor with a broken center contact, and a cracked side. It's a wonder it would start and run with it like this. I also found that the points are indeed in need of replacing. 2014-07-07 (1.5)






- Today started out as break day.  I picked up the needed parts too finish the break upgrade on my YJ, and started looking to see what the issues were with the M.  Found the leak that caused them to have to re-fill it often, was a leaky master cylinder.  Don't see any leaks from any wheels, but will know more when I pull the drums.  Pulled the batter box cover out of my parts pile from my M, and installed it on Darrell's since his was missing.  His M also has two 12V batter tenders wired in so all you do is connect an extension cord.  While grabbing the batter box cover, I found my old M's military distributor,  opened it up and found a perfectly good rotor and cap to use to replace the bad one in his M37.  Pulled his points plate out to install the new points I picked up, and  decided my plate looked better, no rust and a better coil wire, so I installed the new points on it and installed it in the M and gaped it as required.  Swapped in my Cam, installed my Rotor and closed up the distributor.  2014-07-08  (2.5)









- Installed the new civilian plug wires to complete the tune up.  I decided to by-pass the entire M's wiring system so as to not take any chances in any bad wires causing a fire or other issue.  So I pulled the the main body feed wire off the of the starter bettery terminal (Wire #4), and ran a wire from the terminal to the ignition switch, and another wire from the output side of the switch to the coil.  So the only thing the switch powers is the coil.  I also disconnected the Fire Department 12 volt leads from the battery.  With the switch on, I hit the foot starter, and she fired right up and ran nice.  The dry roted fan belt decided to start letting go though.  I then decided to pull the brake drums and check the wheel cylinders and shoes.  Well, the first one I pulled, Right Rear, the one draging looked good until I peaked inside the wheel cylinder boot.  well mud and rust is present, so based on that and the condition of the other three, it will need all new wheel cylinders and fresh shoes.  2014-07-09  (4)













- Cleaned up the drums, and break pads.  Re-installed the drums, and adjsuted a couple of the brakes.  Re-installed the wheels, and bleed the brakes.  So what next?  I went for a test drive!  Made three laps around the subdivision, and it runs good, and stops well.  So I cleaned some of the oil/grease from the underside, and washed out the bed.  I also took a few pictures with it along side my M37.  2014-07-10  (3)



  Well, I've been working on a few other things as well as some wiring planning and parts selection for the M.  I've also removed all the lights, gauges and old wiring harness from the M.  The only wires left are the Battery Cables, and the temporary Ignition wire I install to sstart and drive the M with.  2014-07-29  (6)


  After some more wiring diagram work, it was time to start cutting wires.  I both measured and laid out the cab harness to be sure I cut the wires to the correct lengths.  Waiting on the last of the sire to arrive, but have a lot of it cut to length and ready for assembly.  2014-08-04  (4)



  After receiving the rest of the wire order and getting a proper wattage soldering gun, I'm now making the cab/engine harness.  2014-08-08  (6)



  Finished a few more splices in the Cab/Engine Harness, as well as wrapped the wires where I could before test fitting in the M.  Test fit went very well, so much so I don't expect to be pulling it back out.  No wire too short, and fits pretty darn good.  2014-08-09  (4)
  Finished the splices and wrapping the rear harness.  I than fed it through the  truck, and every thing fits good.  Now to start terminating wires.  2014-08-09  (2)




  I've installed the batter Batter Disconnect.  It's on the ground side of the batteries so that it kills both the 24V and 12V feeds.  I also installed and connected a new dimmer switch.  I pulled out the siren in order to get a new motor for it and blacked out the inner grill area.  Next came the cleaning and painting of the Douglas Connectors metal shells.  I then connected and terminated all the under hood wires except for the horn button connection (need the new horn switch).  2014-08-19  (6)





  Spend the past couple of days completing the back of the dash wiring and most of the under dash wiring.  This included installing and connecting the Turn Signal Switch.  I also wired in the Emergency Light Switch, and Siren Switch and Relay.  Still need to clean and re-assemble the Siren and mount and run it's wire from the relay.  I've also got to complete the wiring for the Power Point and the ignition switch.  I've also gotten the front Marker and Black Light Housing and brackets, and have them cleaned and painted.  2014-08-24  (8)


  I finished painting the front lights and go them installed and wired into the new harness.  I discovered an error in the Signal-Stat 900 wiring schematic for the Flasher assembly on the pin connections.  I had to swap a couple of wires to get them operational.  I also discovered that I should have feed the turn signals with power from the service side of the light switch rather than the power side.  The Turn Signals work when in black-out mode.  I also worked on the Emergency Light brackets and started cleaning and painting the siren parts and replacement door handle.  2014-08-25  (4)



  Installed the 12 Volt Power Point and fabricated and painted the key switch bracket.  I also finished painting and assembling the Siren and installed the new drivers Door handle.  Finished the Emergency Light brackets and installed and connected them.  They work and look pretty good.  2014-08-26  (3)








  Installed and connected the Siren.  Unfortunately I think the replacement motor only spins half as fast as needed as the siren isn't as loud as it should be.  A quick test at 24V was close but not sure how long the motor would survive at that voltage.  Fabricated the missing parts from the horn button repair kit and got it installed and the horn works well.  Wrapped the main starter to regulator to circuit breaker wires in tape while I wait for the replacement, and connected it and the ignition switch.  Connected and installed the gauges.  They all work, and based on the voltage gauge, it looks like the generator is working as well.  The oil pressure gauge barely moves when the engine is running, so it's either got low oil pressure or a bad sender/gauge.  2014-08-27 (3)







  Started the brakes job on Darrell's M.  Unpacked the wheel cylinders I bought from two different suppliers.  Discovered they are both from the same manufacture.  Cleaned them and the new (mane in the USA) master cylinder and gave them a coat of paint.  Pulled the left side apart and removed the old cylinder and shoes and cleaned everything up.  Installed the new parts, put the drum on, and adjusted them.  Then gave it a fresh coat of paint.  Next came the right side, plan was to repeat.  Everything was good until I decided to tighten up the loose sloppy hub.  Discovered it had  been subjected to water and had washed the grease out of the bearings and left a mess.  So I've ordered a wheel bearing kit and inner seal to install.  Next comes the rear.  2014-09-02  (5)




  Worked on the rear brakes today, got them done, and threw a little paint on the wheels since there was so much bare metal.  2014-09-03  (5)



  Well after spending the morning chasing down and installing a new igniter in our hot water heater, I got back to the brake job.  Installed the rear wheels,. and upon arrival of the new bearings I finished installing the right front hub and wheel.  I then fine tune adjusted the brake pads before moving on to replacing the brake hoses and Master Cylinder.  Next comes bleeding the brakes, installing the rear lights that also arrived and water pump.  2014-09-05 (4)




  Bleed, checked and re-adjusted the brakes.  They seem to be in good shape now, and no leeks detected.  I also straightened the Left Rear Fender, then gave it a coat of paint, and painted the new Tail Lights.  Next came the installation of the tail Lights and and finishing the dash wiring.  All the wiring except the back ordered 2 wire generator body harness is complete.  Next comes a test drive to verify the brakes, and then replacing the leaking water pump, and changing fluids.  2014-09-07  (6)




  Well, while I had his M out of the shop to test the brake job, I decided to clean up the mess I made.  Took 3 hours of being on my hands and knees, but it's cleaner.  The brakes worked good, I can lock-up and slide the rears, and the fronts grip the pavement and leave tread marks.  Will look at re-adjusting the fronts to help improve the performance.  After pulling it back in and parking it over some cardboard, I proceeded to change oils.  Front and Rear Differentials and Transfercase all were chocolate brown fluid in color, but no water or chunks or sludge.  The transmission, well it's fluid looked better, but found a few small pieces of metal.  No water or sludge though.  The engine oil was light weight in nature, but no water or chunks.  There is some sludge in the bottom of the oil pan, but no current plans to drop the pan and clean it out.  I checked the ohm readings on the oil sender and it seems like it might be good, but I'll still add a mechanical gauge to the engine compartment to be sure.  Next will come the dome light, and water pump replacement, then it should be done.  2014-09-09  (2)



  Picked up and installed the mechanical oil pressure gauge.  I cleaned up the sending unit before re-installing it, and checked connections of the wires at the gauge, and when I fired her up I had 50 psi on the mechanical, and the electrical gauge started working and showed 60 psi (cold start).  I also installed a dome light, and finished greasing the drive line and suspension.  2014-09-10  (2)

















  Well, Darrell's M37 Brush Fire Truck's Initial Repairs are done.  I removed the water pump and thermostat housing to repair the leak and install a new thermostat, only to find there wasn't a thermostat, and that the existing water pump was not very old.  The back side of the pump wasn't rusted and you could see the ink stamp on it.  The leak appeared to be from the gasket between the water pump and block.  With the new pump and a thermostat installed the engine warmed up to operating temperature now with no leaks.  2014-09-11  (3)




  Thought I'd share the small pile of wire left over from the re-wire.  Also a better picture of the Dome Light.  Darrell asked that I weld the hinge damage area, and throw some paint on the bear spots of the tail gate, so a little more work before it goes home.  2014-09-12  (2)

  All loaded up and ready to be delivered.

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